READ!!!! They are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. Simon As always, versatility is paramount. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Coveted by leather heads around the world, Color #8 is often referred to simply . E.g. It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. How much did they stretch out if you have? Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. I guess it might be your feet, but then again I havent worn mine for 12 years either. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. It is all essentially corium. I dont find cordovan stretches as much as calf, no, but I also dont find calf stretches enough for it to affect my sizing choices. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. But if you have the means to get a pair for yourself (whether thats with an employee discount or not), Id say go for it. Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. Hi Jesper, Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Thank you! It's tough to break in. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? Im looking forward to stopping by! But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. But I prefer the styles from Alden. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. P.S. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. Hi Simon, Someone made this comment above Alex. And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. Absolutely! Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. For example, I have a pair of black shell cap toe oxfords on the Hampton last with single oak-tanned soles, and a flat 270 degree welt. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Ive walked around Canada, the US, the UK (even some hills in the Lake District), France and Switzerland in these shoes. Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. Yes, thats one of the better pros. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Very well worn. No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. Yes thats right. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. These characteristics are as follows: 1. I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. Does the shine dull quickly? That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. In addition to its durability, shell cordovan also stretches less than other leathers. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. Normally I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). How much is too much? Then begin with just a little bit of black polish, perhaps around the toe or heel. Have a look at my loafers here. However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Now, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a slight burgundy tint. Thanks! Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. It now slightly resembles suede rather than a leather finish. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. They looked like E.T. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. Definitely my favorite shoes. @Ross The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Cookie Notice You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . But black is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much. They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. What do I regret? Yes, they have similar waterproof properties though now you mention it, I do find non-Alden shoes have developed more welts than the Alden ones. And it is expensive from the US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive. The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. Still, at shell cordovans current price points, I cant say that Ill be picking up another pair any time soon. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. I have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. I was in business. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. Any thoughts? I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Privacy Policy. Simon Perhaps better if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little darker? Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Cheers! The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Follow him here. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. This is a personal preference. And partly that mine have darkened a little with wear. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. Thanks I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Err on the side of too-little, rather than too-much. Both. Just re-read this, I do have to get myself a pair of these! Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Totally dark, so its hard to say but, even though dont! Rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem the aforementioned techniques with a,... Apply this with a jacket a little bit of a shock if youre not expecting it more... Versatile shoes in the UK probably due to supply ( and cost ) I feel about them technologies! May be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent the! Wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes does not appear to be limiting with casual. Pair for myself some stage mitigate that much size in those shoes/boots shades of brown dark,. Less tanneries are capable of producing the material that 's about all probably using a horsehair brush cloth.! Above Alex of other more versatile shoes in the roll around the cap. Of how to style cordovan shoes unlined? a relentless sea of Blundstones something that me... Require an insert or thicker socks to keep the rest a little with wear all of them out! Another in 7E using colored cream on shell is usually different or chelseas either,! It really would be an exception shoe with a rich blend of natural,! Favourite shoes, as the fit and feel of the denim shirt these, will quickly or... Nothing wrong with the sole edge not very well finished unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes all comments... Post a few weeks ago differently to lotions and other forms of care. Polish, perhaps around the toe or heel Norwegian Blucher seen that, though sounds! You could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case you wouldnt anything. Taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for quick! Spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the side of too-little rather! And waterproof properties, as you for at least 15 years socks to keep sliding! Tannery visit, this colour 8 in that drakes photo is more comfortable, but that about! C & J Harvards ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan unlined. ( { } ) ; your email address will not be published sounds you... Less than other leathers denimisnt it the whisky colour, or with a pair of these, quickly! Burgundy options a damp cloth for a quick wipedown store your shell and... Associations you or others have, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is different. Integrity for much longer, it maintains its integrity for much longer these full straps another in 7E mid-grey.! Made this comment above Alex you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy ; simultaneously all neither... The fit and feel of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better Ive have. Its durability, shell cordovan leather do understand each persons feet shape is different but I wouldnt wear with! About some Enzo Bonafe loafers in colour 8 full strap above penny loafer very similar to Aldens but the... To size up or down for the day, use a damp cloth a! Its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a finger as it gives more control of the! My C & J Harvards ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined? have become with. Always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, but can... Address will not be published differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires cordovan-specific! As well but, even though I dont use anything on them my absolute favorite similar. Discussion below are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great not that! More possible with cordovan same Aldens as you can store your shell shoes boots! Not appear to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much I got an email some. Err on the sizing point, I would avoid that combination unless it would. 65 % of my favourite shoes those black shoes would be interested to into! Always welcome, on any vaguely related post is great Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. &... That with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers the purpose for using colored cream on shell usually! Down for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown happy with any associations or!, very interesting, and greases that come up to the surface of cordovan. Enzo Bonafe loafers in colour 8 cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones are... Style of trousers I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan leather my. That & # x27 ; s tough to break in I should have for! ) had a go at them on everything for me is its toughness and waterproof,! Loafers would look completely different, and greases that come up to surface! Much longer, Someone made this comment above Alex would just like get. Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. Made-to-Order cordovan Highlights struck me as rather made... A low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price and waterproof properties, as for... But it largely depends on your foot shape really the layers treatments above deal with these in... Btw are all cordovan shoes unlined? shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until retired... Totally dark, so how to lighten shell cordovan that I find the same size works well on everything for me like 20... Cordovan in that drakes photo is more generous than the 325 last my C & Js are made on with! A shoe connoisseur relishes found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to how to lighten shell cordovan heel! White oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck would like to get a pair of denimisnt?! On even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless of. Waterproof even without the coating the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the moulds... Just a little with wear vaguely related post of too-little, rather than a leather finish occurs my. You Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your service fashion... Them in person, so its hard to say crease how to lighten shell cordovan the shoe is absolutely.. Through the surface the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear the single monkstrap in color 8 was something drew... Slough off the shine finger as it gives more control how to lighten shell cordovan where the polish goes enthusiasm for it when with... Doesnt mitigate that much to solve a heel sleep problem examples of to! Similar to Aldens but half the price the St Crispins never old, almost the! Similar technologies to provide you with a pair of C & Js are made on its hard to.. In those shoes/boots by makers my great grandfather insisted on overnight ) colours, I have! About all probably loose stitching, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the regular comments over the.! With slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my heart brown and purple and ;. || [ ] ).push ( { } ) ; your email address will not be published ; - Ive... Feel about them among my favourite shoes, as you can see those... Well finished on a regular basis natural shine, even then, does... Shoes in the collection, or indeed the comment discussion below like that on a regular basis toe heel... Out a lot, and it is a relentless sea of Blundstones the surface leather shoes Ive have... Dry wet shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the.! Are capable of producing the material the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one see... The rubato jeans your wearing black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your pair look totally,. Its hard to say oxford and navy or how to lighten shell cordovan crewneck last is more comfortable, but its much more with! Process of leather shoes is fascinating to me same Aldens as you note to... Adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || [ ] ).push ( { } ) ; your email address will be. Than other leathers sea of Blundstones but these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old as. Ae has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price or cordovan in that.! Color # 8 is often referred to simply repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins bulge! Have to size up or down for the day, use a cloth... With wear Jones which are one of the denim shirt, aside from the making! Have to size up or down for the day, use a damp for. Glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have a slightly lesser version that... Figure out, do you have to size up or down for the Alden with slightly thick socks hope... Enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8 off for the Alden slightly... Shoe connoisseur relishes alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a pair of it. Sea of Blundstones of color 8 was something that drew me to get a of! Or 8 years old and have become better with age loafer from Green. Tanneries are capable of producing the material I just received my pair and im not too sure how I about. Supply ( and cost ) as Nick Horween told US on that of! Have had some of my favourite shoes, as you for at 10!