It took us a little over five days (as schedued) to complete the hike. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). . Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Many hikers enjoy the week-long loop from North Lake, around through Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass, and eventually heading out over Bishop Pass to South Lake. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. We had rain (often with hail) during 5 of our 6 days out, so bring a rain coat and a pack cover. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. The John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir Trail engraved deeply into the granite over 100 years ago! Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. But that suited me fine. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. Hwy 168 accesses both trailheads west out of Bishop and there are many signs so even the most directionally challenged can easily follow the breadcrumbs. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. Excellent! P. i. psammophilus is known from the Salinas Valley and may be a synonym of P. i. neglectus (Best 1993; Williams et al. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. The mosquitos were relentless though. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. Why cant I breathe? This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. Even so, with campsites spread out along its length, the valley never seems crowded. There were only 2-3 times where I needed to use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. Our payback day ended up being 13 miles, almost all uphill. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. A mother deer plus two babies. Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. Recommend to everybody. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Tom Harrison Bishop Pass North Lake South Lake Loop map, Day One: Piute Pass Trailhead to Hutchinson Meadow, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.1690269,-118.5659703/Parchers+Resort/@37.1821746,-118.5605844,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be22599824d057:0x2d65d233d333ba3!2m2!1d-118.558043!2d37.18528!3e0?hl=en, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.2214526,-118.6047098/North+Lake+Hiker+Parking/@37.2218114,-118.6169192,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be212c5ba6930b:0x4fdb45ddf9fd610a!2m2!1d-118.6186999!2d37.2306136!3e0?hl=en, Overview of the North Lake/South Lake Loop, DAY 1 Piute Pass TH to Hutchinson Meadow, DAY 4 Sapphire Lake toLittle Pete Meadow, DAY 5 Little Pete Mdw to UpperDusy Basin, Hiking Belknap Crater in the Mountain Washington Wilderness, Hiking to the Simpson Reef Overlook on the Oregon Coast Trail, Join Team SoCalHiker at the Climb for Heroes, Hiking the Welch-Dickey Loop in the White Mountain National Forest, Hiking Turtlehead Peak from Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, How to deal with accidents while hiking in the winter. I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! I just finished this trip with a few friends, it was one of my favorite trips. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. Day 1: The first day held an unexpected bonus in that, inadvertently, it turned out to be Get-used-to-less-oxygen Day. Darwin/Bench. This is a beautiful post. It was gorgeous! The ferry was not running this early in the season. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. Moderate to the rim of the valley. I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! Distance: 8.8 miles Time: 5-7 hours Difficulty: Strenuous Gain/Loss: +498'/-1,537 Dogs: No When to go: Late July-Early October It may be called a 'creek', but Piute Creek was raging! omg. Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall
I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. . We puzzled about the cause. But we didnt see any rangers. We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). the mouth of Evolution Valley. An incredible hike through the Sierras. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. . The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. John Muir Wilderness sign in the Sierra National Forest good-bye Kings Canyon National Park! 27, 28, 33 and 34, T. 15 N., R. 14 E., S. B. M., on the east slope of the Ivanpah range of mountains, in Mescal Mining District, 8 miles north of Cima. That felt great! History. Definitely one of my favorite trips ever. Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. These Photos Prove It. Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park
It was gorgeous. Read more + Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Golden trout present. I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. We are slow hikers. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. It was breathtaking up there. Enjoy! This was an absolute must do trail! Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. John muir pass was hardest part, rained and was windy. This was a beautiful scenic area with decent camping and a gorgeous small lake (Loch Leven). The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. That was a big mistake. Crest Piute Pass, then drop down toward Summit Lake. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. The ferry is worth it if its running. Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. Lunch at Evolution Lake. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. You have to cross a river to get to them. Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. No rain. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. There was no bridge. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. A couple of mosquitos came out in the cooler air as the shadow of the mountain came into camp. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. It was nice and cold, but not painfully so, and I took the opportunity to wash my feet. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. Sign up for Outside+ today. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). Tough climb over the pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the JMT. Didnt see a bear which a good thing. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. The next morning we left the JMT and made our way up, up, and up to Bishop Pass via Dusy Basin which was over 6 miles away from the JMT junction. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . A mother deer plus two babies. My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). I didnt see anyone moving this time. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. It is a hard one but worth it. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. But the point is we were beat! I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. Follow signs pointing to Kings Canyon National Park. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. It had taken me almost twelve hours, although I have to admit that I took several very long breaks. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). What a reward after the long hike up the mountainThanks. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. That was about 8 miles, we had wanted to camp at the meadow but was beat so made camp a couple miles sooner. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. The final day we packed out. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. Florence Lake Store and Ferry. The forest and meadows of Evolution Valley had been very beautiful, as had the waterfalls along the way. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. Its about half way down Dusy basin. Then climbs through Evolution Meadow and Evolution Valley to reach Evolution Lake; 4,850 ft. of climb, 3,400 ft. of descent in 28 miles. Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. The Morning Star Mine comprises a group of 18 claims, situated in Secs. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! South Lake From South Lake, hike 6.0 miles up Bishop Pass (11,972 ft.). It all worked out in the end, however. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. I was breathing so hard I started to suspect my companions might have embraced some trail humor and stashed their heavy items in my pack when I wasnt looking. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. Piute Pass. The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). Absolutely beautiful. Required fields are marked *. The trail distance from the junction of the San Joaquin River and Evolution Creek to the summit of Muir Pass is 15.4 miles / 24.8 kilometres (mile 113.2 to mile 128.6 in the Blackwoods Press John Muir Trail Atlas). Our goal was Sapphire lake, but there was still a ton of snow over the 4th and we didnt have proper snow gear to cross over the pass from Evolution lake to Sapphire lake. It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. Hike up Muir Pass, down to Le Conte Ranger Station. From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. Notice that when I downsized my load I didnt ditch the tequila. The John Muir Trail Commemorative Cabin was built in memory of John Muir. I plan to get back there this month with Now that the best parts of the trek were over (quite possibly), I was beginning to yearn for home. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. I have done this trail three times in all. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. My mood was improving by the minute! Dinners were instant potatoes with packaged salmon or tuna along with instant soup or couscous. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. One downside though: it's freaking hard. I took off my shoes and let my damp feet dry out in the breeze. Hiking Distance: 19 miles
The rivers and meadows are stunning. $4,995: August 6-11. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour.
Bear canisters are not required, but food must be stored in a safe way, e.g. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. Then I hiked north, paralleling the water. Plenty of water along the trail and also plenty of places to camp. Water is abundant if you plan it right. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. Such a memorable backpacking trip! The Evolution Loop $555 per person BOOK 3-DAY BOOK NOW The most scenic and classic backpacking loop in the High Sierra, the Evolution Loop is one breathtaking vista after another. Conditions were great! This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. During my summer as a volunteer wildlife technician in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, I spent my days trekking with a pack full of tracking equipment to survey animal populations. A number of camp sites here. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. Multiple Ascents Grid: Click for a grid showing all of Chris Land The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. What a sight! Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that
September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. my 21-year-old daughter. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Now I cant breathe for another reason. This is an excellent report on a great hiking trip. Day 3: Today was another up and over day. Then I continued north. No smoke from the California wildfires. Jessie Wheeler. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. The Section maintains historic summit registers at Bancroft Library on the University of California, Berkeley campus.. "All truth goes through three stages. We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. Free parkinggotta love that! Spend up to 3 days there, then out via Evolution Valley, Darwin Basin & Lamarck Col. Julia, Megan and I were to spend 9 days accomplishing this; Trekker9, Slabwalker and JP however had work commitments and would squeeze it into 7 days - leaving us after 5-6 days and taking 2 days to exit over Lamarck. . The river is nice to camp by here. Evolution Lake was beautiful! Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. Grand views of the high sierra. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! 6 days / 5 night. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. 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